Athens is fresh from a burst of urban renewal, and the energy is infectious. Now the downtown galleries and bars are as big a drawcard as the Acropolis in this exuberant, hedonistic town. This pared-down number is ideal for quick trips - its less accommodation, more neighbourhood highlights and the best of local knowledge. - Full-colour pull-out map and detailed neighbourhood maps. - Expert author recommendations for restaurants, bars and sights. - Excursions to Delphi, Hydra and Cape Sounion. - Tips on alternative Athens from a local DJ.