Vesna Maric Discover Sicily Stand craters-edge and gaze at the river of fire in Etnas Valle del Bove Get serious about Mediterranean architecture with classical temples and bijou Byzantine chapels Haggle hard and eat copiously at the islands raucous markets and rustic restaurants Make like the movie stars with volcanic mud packs and seawater Jacuzzis in the Aeolians In This Guide Locals tell it how it is, from anti-Mafia campaigners to traditional chocolatiers Get off the beaten track with competition-beating information on volcano treks and rural residences Dont just take our word for it - see what travelers are saying at lonelyplanet.com