Virginia Maxwell Discover Istanbul Listen to the echoes of countless footsteps rising into the dome of the Aya Sofya Savour the serene frescoes and glittering mosaics of the Chora Church Watch the sunset while commuting between Asia and Europe on a Bosphorous ferry Submit to a vigorous lathering and scrubbing in a historic hamam In This Guide: 46 days of in-city research, 30 ferry trips, over 100 mezes eaten Full-color chapters on the citys architectural treasures and Turkish cuisine Locals discuss making a living in the bazaar, artistic traditions, bears and gender benders Content updated daily - visit lonelyplanet.com for up-to-the-minute reviews, updates and traveler insights